So we arrive at tasting the “Beast of Dufftown” A.K.A – Mortlach. When one thinks of Mortlach, immediately sulfur and big meaty flavors, oxtail soup, and sherry monsterdom comes to mind… This expression follows, having been aged in First-fill PX /Oloroso seasoned European oak butt. A single cask then #2652, yielding 389 bottles, presented in the Mortlach sort of bottle, rectangularly shaped.
Mortlach 25 yo 1994/2019 , 55.1%, OB, Prima & Ultima
Nose: Not very surprising – very Mortlachy indeed, with big sulfur notes upfront (if that makes you shudder – then don’t), spent matches/gunpowder, some earth, wine vinegar (Balsamic if you insist), black tea, meat broth, a bit metallic as well, sweet wine and prunes, leather.
Palate: Lots of chocolate, with prune and date, then, more earthy notes, oak, fig jam, some dried fruit leather, more of the gunpowder and some pepper, broiled meat in sweet marinade.
Finish: Very long, very chocolatey with a twist of pepper /chilly flake maybe, drying with the marmalade of dried fruits going a long way.
Conclusion
As expected this is a lovely whisky, with exactly what one would expect from a Mortlach at this age and profile. A lovely dram to take your time with, and enjoy. Not into Sulfur? you might want to skip this one, but if you’re a Mortlach fan, you’re quite into this profile, are you?
I probably could not afford this one even if it were sold not as part of the P&U range. but if you’re feeling rich and love a good Mortlach, why not? Having said that – The Lagavulin is still a few notches better.